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	Getting into either seat can be difficult with all those belts in your way. Then trying to get them out from under your butt can be really tough.
	You can move the center belts out of your way, but what do you do with the belts on the fuselage sides? There is no where to put them that will be out of the way.
	Sew a piece of Velcro on the end of the belt. I suggest that you use the felt piece for this. I did not think of this until after the belts were in and it is difficult to remove them, so I had to sew them on by hand. Have your upholsterer do it before you put the belts in and save your some time and work.
	As you are having your seat backs made, have the upholsterer sew a small piece of Velcro on the outside edge of the back at about shoulder height. I suggest the hook part for this.
	Now you can just take the end of the belt and press it gently against the edge of the seat back, and
	guess what, no seat belts in your way.
	Pics have been flipped for your viewing pleasure. This is the finished product of the interior, with the exception of the seat upholstery.
	Compass, EGT, CHT, OT, OP, AMP 35 Amp Master breaker switch and key switch with ACC, IGN, and Start. We will not be using the start in this configuration. Cabin heat cable below panel.
	Fuel pump switches on separate 3 amp breakers, 10 amp elec ign breaker, 5 amp ACC and IGN buss breakers. 30Amp Alternator breaker switch and 5 Amp alternator circuit breaker.
	Push to start and control cables for mixture, throttle, and carb heat. Also shown is the ELT annunciator.
	Now we go down under and see the fresh air hoses and some of the wiring.
	Fresh air hoses are tied to blocks that are floxed to the gas tank bottom and under side of the forward deck
	ACC buss, only the wires coming from the instrument panel are inside the wrapped harness.
	The ON (IGN) buss is down there somewhere, but we have nothing to go there right now.
	Showing the Accessory Power Ports for the hand held radio and the GPS that we will have one day.
	I got the idea to do inlays at one of the Red Oak Gathering. And then I thought a nice drape snapped on to cover the bottom section to the seat would be nice.
	Just a closer look. These pics have been flipped for your viewing pleasure. That is why no seats are in.
	Close up to be able to see the fabric. It is naugahyde and is what I am using for all the upholstery.
	I made horses that stand 4' tall to put the plane on. This allows me to work standing up, inside the cockpit. I hope to get all the cockpit work done before we turn it back over.
	This was Jerry's idea and I am really glad that he thought of it. The tube is the heat vent and the plate is the deflector.
	This deflector should dispurse the warm air instead of blasting it in one place.
	Oh yes, I got a light in there. This shows the static line, taken from the RV way of doing it tha Dana told us about. I bought the Vans kit, but there was nothing in it that I could use except some fittings that I already had. I had to buy that tee fitting. Vans is way too complicated.
	This is the 1/4" static line secured to the underside of the longeron with hot glue, and also shown is the cabin heat vent control.
	This is the static vent, otherwise known as a pop rivet, installed in the fuselage. Notice the large head on this rivet. I got it at the local auto supply store. This is all there is to installing a static line using these rivets.
	This shows a test piece that I did to see how the poprivet would secure the tube and how the mandrel could be removed. You can see how long the shaft is on this rivet. The ones from Vans are much too short to be used in a wooden fuselage.
	This is the stainless steel heat box for cabin heat. It is expensive, but it sure was easy to make. I got another one like it for carb heat. On the other side is the hose for fresh air.
	This is a cable safe for the cabin heat cable. I used these on all the control cables.
	These blue bulkhead fittings will be used to duct the wires into the cockpit. That hose is left over from the Little Beast and will be replaced with two layer aeroduct like you see a few pics later.
	These are the really nice aero duct hose. Two layer so the wire does not unravel itself when you cut the hose. We have a Y tube to route the fresh air to two swivel vents in the instrument panel.
	Here you can see how the cables install in the cable safe. Once they are in, they don't move. Below the cables is the ground lug. I intend to run a heavy ground wire from it to a ground buss closer to the instrument panel.